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Triple Fisherman's Knot

Also known as: Triple Grapevine Knot

bend knot

Life-safety notice

TyingPoint's illustrations are for learning. For any life-safety use — climbing, rope access, rescue, or load-bearing rigging — seek qualified in-person instruction, and always inspect and test every knot before you trust your weight (or anyone else's) to it.

The double fisherman's knot is the standard, trusted bend for joining two ends of accessory cord into a closed loop for a prusik or similar friction hitch - but on genuinely thin, slick, or stiff modern cord, two wraps of overhand knot sometimes isn't quite enough friction to guarantee the knot won't slowly work loose over repeated loading cycles. The triple fisherman's knot adds one more wrap to each half specifically to address that margin, at the cost of a bulkier, harder-to-untie finished knot.

The tying method is a direct extension of the double version: instead of a double overhand knot tied by each rope around the other's standing part, a triple overhand knot is tied instead, then the two triple-wrapped knots are pulled together to interlock and jam against each other.

Climbers and canyoneers who work with particularly thin (5-6mm) accessory cord, or with especially slick modern cord materials, often default to the triple version specifically because that thinner, slicker cord is exactly where the double version's margin of safety is thinnest. On standard 7mm cord in typical conditions, the double fisherman's knot remains entirely adequate and far easier to untie afterward.

That extra wrap's cost is real: a triple fisherman's knot that's been loaded hard can be genuinely difficult to work apart afterward, sometimes requiring real effort or a marlinspike to loosen. Climbers building a permanent prusik loop that rarely needs untying accept that cost readily; those who expect to retie the loop regularly may prefer the double version's easier release, on cord thick and grippy enough to make that a safe tradeoff.

Material matters as much as diameter here: modern high-strength cords like Dyneema or Spectra blends are notoriously slick compared with traditional nylon accessory cord of the same thickness, and manufacturers of these cords often specifically recommend a triple (or even quadruple) wrap for any knot tied in them, since their low-friction surface behaves more like a much thinner traditional cord than its actual diameter would suggest.

Because the extra wrap is simple repetition of an already-familiar motion, climbers who default to tying triple fisherman's knots as a habit on all their prusik loops generally don't find it meaningfully slower in practice - the real cost shows up only later, if and when the loop needs to be untied and retied rather than replaced outright.

How to tie the Triple Fisherman's Knot

  1. 1Lay the two rope ends alongside each other, pointing in opposite directions.
  2. 2Tie a triple overhand knot with one end around the other rope's standing part.
  3. 3Tie an identical triple overhand knot with the second end around the first rope's standing part.
  4. 4Pull the two standing parts apart firmly so the two triple-wrapped knots slide together and lock against each other.
  5. 5Dress both knots so all wraps lie neatly parallel with no crossed strands.
  6. 6Leave generous tails on both sides and check the two knots are pulled fully snug against each other.

Strength & security

Approx. strength retained: 70-80%

Adding a third wrap to each half of the standard double fisherman's knot gives extra security specifically on slick, low-friction cordage - thin accessory cord, some coated ropes - where the double version's two wraps alone might not generate quite enough grip.

Cautions: It's genuinely harder to untie after loading than the double version, and the extra bulk can be unwelcome where the joint needs to pass through a narrow gap or device - use it specifically where the slicker cordage justifies the extra security.

Alternatives

FAQ

When should I use a triple fisherman's knot instead of a double?

Decide by material, not by a pull test - you cannot reproduce the relevant loads by hand. Use a triple in slick, high-modulus cord: Dyneema or Spectra cores, and aramid/Technora tech cord. The failure these materials show isn't slow creep you could spot by leaning on the loop; it's the sheath tearing at the knot at high load and the slippery core pulling through. On ordinary nylon accessory cord, a double fisherman's is fine.

Is the triple fisherman's knot harder to untie than the double version?

Yes, noticeably - the extra wrap adds real security but also makes the finished knot bulkier and more resistant to being worked apart after loading.

Is a triple fisherman's knot necessary on standard climbing cord?

Usually not - on typical 7mm accessory cord in ordinary conditions, the double fisherman's knot is adequate and considerably easier to untie afterward.

Does modern high-strength cord like Dyneema need extra wraps too?

Yes, often - these cords are notoriously slicker than traditional nylon of the same diameter, and manufacturers frequently recommend a triple or even quadruple wrap since the cord behaves more like a much thinner, lower-friction material than its actual thickness suggests.

Gear that pairs with this knot

  • 5–6mm high-strength accessory cord

    The thin, slick, aramid- or Dyneema-core cord this page says is exactly where the double version's margin runs out and the third wrap is needed.

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