TyingPoint.
← All Knots

Blake's Hitch

hitch knot

Life-safety notice

TyingPoint's illustrations are for learning. For any life-safety use — climbing, rope access, rescue, or load-bearing rigging — seek qualified in-person instruction, and always inspect and test every knot before you trust your weight (or anyone else's) to it.

Arborists spend entire working days ascending and repositioning on a single climbing line, and that repeated use pushed tree-climbing rope-access technique toward a friction hitch built specifically for rope-on-rope contact rather than the thin accessory cord a rock climber's prusik typically uses. Blake's hitch, tied directly in the climbing rope itself, grips reliably under a full body weight through repeated ascents in a way that's held up as the standard in modern arborist climbing systems.

Its construction spirals four wraps upward around the standing part, then brings the working end back down behind the rope and threads it up under the bottom two of those wraps, so the tail emerges in the middle of the hitch - the arrangement usually written as the 4/2. That tuck under the lower two turns is the whole hitch, and describing it loosely is how it gets tied wrong: the end does not simply pass back down through the middle of the coils. It is a more elaborate wrap-and-tuck sequence than the prusik's simpler repeated coils, but one that arborists have found grips more predictably specifically when both the hitch cord and the rope it grips are the same or similar rope, rather than thin cord on thick rope.

Because it's typically tied directly in the working climbing line rather than a dedicated separate cord, wear inspection matters more here than with a prusik tied in disposable accessory cord - any fraying or glazing at the hitch's wrap points is a genuine safety concern that arborists are trained to check for as part of routine gear inspection.

Its adoption has been largely specific to professional tree-climbing and rope-access work rather than general mountaineering, where the prusik and its variants remain the more universally taught default - Blake's hitch is a genuine, still-used specialist tool rather than a broadly general-purpose friction hitch.

The hitch is named for Jason Blake, an American arborist credited with popularizing it within the tree-care industry, and it spread through arborist training programs largely by word of mouth and hands-on apprenticeship before appearing in written climbing manuals - a documented but relatively recent addition to knot practice compared with hitches whose origins trace back centuries.

One practical detail that distinguishes it in daily arborist use: because it's tied in the same rope the climber ascends and descends on, rather than a separate cord, it can be untied and retied quickly at a new position on the tree without needing to carry or manage a second piece of gear - a genuine efficiency advantage over a system that requires a dedicated prusik loop, though it does mean the hitch itself takes slightly longer to dress correctly each time compared with simply clipping a pre-tied prusik loop onto the rope.

How to tie the Blake's Hitch

  1. 1Take the tail of the climbing line itself and lay it alongside that line's standing part - unlike a prusik, Blake's hitch is normally tied in the working rope rather than in a separate cord.
  2. 2Wrap the working end around the main rope four to five times, spiraling upward.
  3. 3Bring the working end back down the outside of the wraps, passing behind the standing part of the rope.
  4. 4Thread the end upward under the bottom two turns, between those turns and the standing part, so it emerges in the middle of the hitch - this 4/2 tuck is the hitch, and getting it wrong is what makes it roll.
  5. 5Pull snug and dress the wraps evenly so none overlaps another.
  6. 6Tie a stopper knot - a figure-eight is standard - in the tail below the hitch, then attach and test the grip by weighting it gradually. The stopper is not optional dressing: Blake's hitch can roll out under the wrong loading, and the stopper is what jams it if it starts to.

Strength & security

Tied in rope rather than the prusik's thin accessory cord, Blake's hitch is favored by arborists specifically because it can be tied directly in the climbing rope itself for a friction hitch that grips reliably under a climber's full body weight during repeated ascents.

Cautions: It requires more wraps and a specific tuck pattern to dress correctly compared with a prusik, and it must be inspected regularly for wear since it's typically tied in the same rope used for climbing rather than a separate cord. Two further points are standard practice rather than optional refinements: the hitch is documented as susceptible to rolling out under the wrong loading, so a stopper knot - commonly a figure-eight - belongs in the tail below it to jam the hitch if it starts to roll; and the load should be taken on the line below the hitch, not above it.

Alternatives

FAQ

Why do arborists prefer Blake's hitch over a prusik?

It grips reliably when tied directly in the climbing rope itself rather than a separate thin cord, which suits the repeated full-weight ascending arborists do all day on a single line.

Is Blake's hitch harder to tie than a prusik?

It involves more wraps and a specific tuck-through pattern, so it takes more practice to dress consistently, but it's not conceptually more complex once learned.

Does Blake's hitch need extra inspection compared to a prusik?

Yes - since it's often tied directly in the working climbing rope rather than disposable accessory cord, wear at the wrap points needs regular checking as part of routine gear inspection.

Who is Blake's hitch named after?

Jason Blake, an American arborist credited with popularizing the hitch within the tree-care industry, where it spread largely through hands-on apprenticeship before being documented in written climbing references.

Gear that pairs with this knot

  • Arborist climbing rope (16-strand, 11–13mm)

    Blake's hitch was developed for rope-on-rope grip in arborist lines of the same diameter, which is where it holds most predictably.

  • Eye-to-eye split tail

    The standard way to tie a Blake's hitch on a working line is with a rated split tail rather than the rope's own end, so the hitch can be re-tied without re-rigging.

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases made through the links above, at no extra cost to you.