Shear Lashing
binding knot
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Building an A-frame shelter support, a simple two-legged trestle, or the start of a tripod all share a common need: two poles lashed together at one point that then spread apart at the other end, working as a hinge rather than staying locked at a fixed angle the way a square-lashed joint does. The shear lashing achieves exactly that by deliberately tying its wraps looser between the two poles than a square lashing would, leaving enough play for the poles to pivot open into the spread shape once the lashing is complete.
The technique wraps the cord loosely around both poles held together, then adds a modest set of frapping turns - enough to gather the wraps neatly and keep them from sliding, but not cinched anywhere near as tight as a square lashing's frapping stage, since over-tightening here would lock the poles rigid and defeat the hinge action the lashing is meant to provide.
Getting that tension right takes some judgment: too loose and the lashing itself can slip or the poles can wobble excessively at the hinge point; too tight and the poles simply won't spread into the A-frame or tripod-leg shape needed. Most builders test the spread by hand partway through tying, before the final frapping turns are locked in, to confirm the hinge moves freely enough.
A shear lashing on two poles is also the direct foundation for a tripod lashing on three - the same loose-wrap, modest-frap principle extended to a third pole, which is why anyone who's mastered the two-pole shear lashing finds the tripod version a fairly small additional step.
Beyond A-frames and trestles, shear lashing sees regular use rigging a simple lifting gin - two poles lashed near their tops and spread into an inverted V, with a pulley or rope run over the lashed point to hoist a load below. That's a genuinely different application from a static shelter frame, since the lashing itself takes real, ongoing working load from whatever's being hoisted rather than simply holding a fixed structural shape, which makes getting the tension right - secure enough to trust with a hoisted load, loose enough to have formed the hinge properly in the first place - even more important than in a purely static A-frame.
The rope or cord chosen for a shear lashing intended to bear real hoisting load should be meaningfully more robust than what's adequate for a simple static camp trestle, since the lashing here is doing double duty as both the hinge mechanism and part of the actual load path during a lift.
How to tie the Shear Lashing
- 1Lay two poles parallel and side by side, touching along their length.
- 2Anchor the cord with a clove hitch around one pole.
- 3Wrap the cord loosely around both poles together, seven to eight turns, without pulling tight between the poles.
- 4Add two to three frapping turns between the two poles, pulling snug to gather the loose wraps.
- 5Finish with a clove hitch around the second pole.
- 6Spread the two poles apart at the unlashed ends into an A-frame or splayed shape - the lashing acts as a hinge.
Strength & security
A shear lashing joins two spars at one point and lets them spread into an A-frame or shear legs at the other. How tight to tie it is genuinely disputed in the published literature: some pioneering guidance says to keep the wraps and fraps on the loose side and let them tighten as the legs spread, while military rigging manuals specify tight turns throughout. A practical middle course, and the fourth approach Scout Pioneering lists, is to make the wraps, spread the legs to the width you actually want, and only then take the frapping turns up tight.
Cautions: Tie it loose enough that the legs can open to the angle you need, but do not leave it slack once they are open - a shear lashing that stays loose at working width lets the legs wander. If the shears will lift anything, take the fraps up tight after spreading.
Alternatives
- Square Lashing
The right choice when the poles need to stay fixed at a rigid right angle rather than spreading apart into a hinge.
- Tripod Lashing
Adds a third pole to the same hinge idea, useful when a freestanding stand is needed rather than just a two-legged A-frame.
FAQ
Why is a shear lashing tied looser than a square lashing?
Because it's meant to act as a hinge - the poles spread apart at the unlashed end into an A-frame or trestle shape, which a tightly cinched square lashing wouldn't allow.
What happens if I tie a shear lashing too tight?
The poles won't be able to spread properly into the A-frame or hinge shape - over-tightening defeats the whole purpose of a shear lashing versus a square lashing.
Is the shear lashing related to the tripod lashing?
Yes - the tripod lashing extends the same loose-wrap, hinge-forming principle to three poles instead of two, for a freestanding tripod rather than a two-legged A-frame.
Can a shear lashing be used for hoisting, not just static frames?
Yes - shear legs with a pulley over the lashed point are a traditional simple hoist. But shears are not freestanding the way a tripod is: unlike a three-legged gyn, which stands stable on its own, shear legs get their stability from guy lines and need at least two of them. Rig the guys before you load anything. This also puts real working load on the lashing itself, so use rope sized for the job rather than light camp cord.
Gear that pairs with this knot
- 1/4-inch manila lashing rope
Natural-fibre rope grips itself and bites into wood, which is what lets the frapping turns lock a lashing rigid; slick synthetic line slides and never quite tightens the same way.
- Tarred bank line (#36)
The bushcraft alternative for lashing lighter poles — the tar gives it grip, it is thin enough to frap tightly, and a spool goes a long way.
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